The land of lakes and waterfalls.
A harsh and majestic land. A place where character is forged and all human shortcomings and virtues are exposed. There are no “bows” here, only minimalism and nothing superfluous. This region is rich in its mineral resources, animals, birds, plants, human “expanse” and courage. Norilsk is a city that works despite the harshness of nature, extracts nickel and copper for the benefit of the state, but with the same huge “steps” it harms the environment. Although in recent years he has been trying to take the righteous path: he is looking for options to cleanse the city of mountains of scrap metal, installing filters for hydrogen sulfide, starting to build new housing for its residents, and developing tourism. But this is Taimyr, this is the Arctic, it is impossible to fix everything at once with a snap of your fingers. Here you will have to roll up your sleeves, put on rubber boots and throw a mosquito net over your face, and also grab a “bag” of perseverance and patience. Because the national way of life was created in this region with the sweat and blood of NORLAG prisoners. And it will be difficult to cover up this mark with fresh cement...
Well, Taimyr is harsh, but those who are patient and do not give up halfway will be rewarded. In its depths it hides the edge of many lakes, mountains and waterfalls, as well as rare animals and birds. Today I will take you on an excursion into the depths of this mysterious world - the Putorana Plateau.
Morning. Drizzling rain. Cold and piercing wind. Early rise and loading onto the “Wizard” boat. This is where miracles begin! Moving a little away from the shore, the connection slowly disappears (over time it will disappear completely) and the outlines of the city. But in return, nature reveals its beauty wave after wave: shaggy larches, mirror lakes and mountains with flat tops, as if someone had carefully trimmed them. At times, no, no, but you can see loons, seagulls, ducks, if it is the end of August, then watch how yellow colors appear on the trees in some places (“golden” autumn comes here early), and there is snow on some mountain peaks. The weather here is very changeable and capricious: it can give you bright sun and northern lights or torrential rain with strong winds. And all this within one day. And yes, be careful, Morpheus has a strong influence on people here, but here he doesn’t want to resist!
Now we are already on Lake Lama (translated from the local as sea, which is plausible with its waves and rocky beaches), mooring to the base of the same name. We are greeted by the local residents of the Kamenny Peninsula with a ringing bark: Zhuzha and Harry, peaceful and friendly. It’s worth walking a little along the wooden flooring and you find yourself near a large wooden house, built in 1941, in the shape of an airplane. Once upon a time, pioneers lived and vacationed here, then NORNIKEL workers, and now just tourists who crave adventure and unprecedented beauty.
Our acquaintance with the peninsula begins with its history. The story is not simple, like the whole Arctic. Where, in permafrost conditions, houses were built and erected not just by prisoners, but by people with brilliant minds, who had the imprudence to say something unnecessary or to be simply displeasing to their state. So on one hill a cross was erected in memory of the Baltic generals, and at its foot, in the thick of trees, there was a small burial place. Few people know about this, but they were brought here in 1941, in military greatcoats (which were later replaced by prison sweatshirts) to serve their sentences (or rather, to build). The generals were already at that age when it was difficult to even get off the ladder, let alone work. As you understand, they did not live in such conditions for long...
If you put aside all the hardship of life in Taimyr, you can see its beauty and pristine nature. We will enjoy the cascade of waterfalls that replace each other one after another. Their power in their flow, splashes, blue water. Let's enjoy blueberries, blueberries and even red currants. And mushroom pickers here will find freedom for themselves and will be stupefied by the number and variety of mushrooms... Well, well, the day is coming to an end, you can wrap yourself in a blanket and sing a couple or three romances with a guitar, drink hot tea and more, tell a heroic legend about yourself and immediately laugh out loud, amazed at your imagination.
Morning, hearty breakfast and off we go. It's time to visit the mountain lake, which is located in a stone circus and a four-hour walk from the base camp. A short walk along the river, and then trekking through the forest-tundra. This is where the hard part begins. Firstly, the path to the top is always not easy, secondly, the local berries beckon you to stay and not go anywhere (but the midges don’t let you relax and try in every possible way to fly somewhere), thirdly, the dwarf birch trees are very closely intertwined with each other and spread along the ground in a thick carpet, so it’s very difficult to walk along them. And two more serious “rivals” - the wind and the enchanting view of Lake Lama and the nearby mountains, you want to sit and contemplate. But... we climbed here for a reason, but we are leading our way to a lake of snowy origin. And there is one more test ahead - kurumnik (stone embankments). Here you need to be extremely focused, the stones can be shaky and unstable. Particularly astute ones may feel like “goats” and deftly jump on them, but do not be deceived, this can be dangerous! A little time later, we approach the lake: cold, crystal clear and rebellious, because the wind does not spare its surface and blows from all sides. That’s when you feel that you can’t survive in this land alone, only mutual assistance and love can warm you up and save you from the bitter cold. Loneliness is the lot of snowy mountains, but they are not completely alone. In a couple of days we will have to climb to a height of 1060 meters, which the locals called Pavel, and on the contrary, about the same height, the Elena peak.
Now descent, rest. Fishing. Clouds.
The beginning of September is the golden time of Putoran. The weather is kind to us: today it is warm, bright sun, trees in elegant “dresses” of yellow and red. We are preparing for the ascent, we are worried, we are in a little hurry (what if the weather changes and we won’t see anything there, because the previous group climbed in the snow a week ago). But, no, someone invisible “agreed” with the weather so that we could fully enjoy this day (if it’s a secret, Lama makes wishes come true, the main thing is to ask correctly). And here is our usual road along the river, an ascent along a dry stream bed, forest-tundra, a kurumnik and stone “gendarmes”, which we walked around to the side so as not to disturb them. Plateau. There is a lot of light, space - the “roof” of the world, everything from above seems small, simple, distant and at the same time so close that you can almost touch it with your hand. Huge lakes now fit in the palm of your hand, and rivers are just thin winding threads. How could you live without this feeling of flight, scale and freedom? Sometimes we forget where we live and what surrounds us, and only in such moments of freedom do we free our minds from the frailty of little things and leave only what is really important!
Yes, sometimes it’s worth experiencing all the hardships of life in order to later understand what you’re worth. And this ascent and journey is proof of that. Now it's time to return to civilization. Saying goodbye is always painful for me, but also trembling, because the hope of returning always warms my soul...
“The Wizard” again, a long return to Norilsk, but you are already full of life and feelings that saturate you. Dudinka. Dream.
The last day of getting to know Taimyr, the Yenisei, with its sad history, but with hope for the best.
I sincerely hope that the finest hour of the Arctic is still ahead and that more people will experience the beauty of the Putorana Plateau.
The mist of your blue eyes...
I saw Lake Lama in it.
In the fragments of stones, and about them
You walked, stumbling, stubbornly.
The coldness of the water beckoned you...
Through the pink dust of sunset
The endless day floated by, and you
The expanse is ironing, rumpled with ripples.
And the cold fire trembles,
Like the trembling wind of a dryad,
He hugged you and his palm
You didn't reveal it for a reward.
You handed it to me
Breathing restlessly and raggedly,
And my heart walked
On the sharp stones of Putorana.
Osman Delebash
The land of lakes and waterfalls.
A harsh and majestic land. A place where character is forged and all human shortcomings and virtues are exposed. There are no “bows” here, only minimalism and nothing superfluous. This region is rich in its mineral resources, animals, birds, plants, human “expanse” and courage. Norilsk is a city that works despite the harshness of nature, extracts nickel and copper for the benefit of the state, but with the same huge “steps” it harms the environment. Although in recent years he has been trying to take the righteous path: he is looking for options to cleanse the city of mountains of scrap metal, installing filters for hydrogen sulfide, starting to build new housing for its residents, and developing tourism. But this is Taimyr, this is the Arctic, it is impossible to fix everything at once with a snap of your fingers. Here you will have to roll up your sleeves, put on rubber boots and throw a mosquito net over your face, and also grab a “bag” of perseverance and patience. Because the national way of life was created in this region with the sweat and blood of NORLAG prisoners. And it will be difficult to cover up this mark with fresh cement...
Well, Taimyr is harsh, but those who are patient and do not give up halfway will be rewarded. In its depths it hides the edge of many lakes, mountains and waterfalls, as well as rare animals and birds. Today I will take you on an excursion into the depths of this mysterious world - the Putorana Plateau.
Morning. Drizzling rain. Cold and piercing wind. Early rise and loading onto the “Wizard” boat. This is where miracles begin! Moving a little away from the shore, the connection slowly disappears (over time it will disappear completely) and the outlines of the city. But in return, nature reveals its beauty wave after wave: shaggy larches, mirror lakes and mountains with flat tops, as if someone had carefully trimmed them. At times, no, no, but you can see loons, seagulls, ducks, if it is the end of August, then watch how yellow colors appear on the trees in some places (“golden” autumn comes here early), and there is snow on some mountain peaks. The weather here is very changeable and capricious: it can give you bright sun and northern lights or torrential rain with strong winds. And all this within one day. And yes, be careful, Morpheus has a strong influence on people here, but here he doesn’t want to resist!
Now we are already on Lake Lama (translated from the local as sea, which is plausible with its waves and rocky beaches), mooring to the base of the same name. We are greeted by the local residents of the Kamenny Peninsula with a ringing bark: Zhuzha and Harry, peaceful and friendly. It’s worth walking a little along the wooden flooring and you find yourself near a large wooden house, built in 1941, in the shape of an airplane. Once upon a time, pioneers lived and vacationed here, then NORNIKEL workers, and now just tourists who crave adventure and unprecedented beauty.
Our acquaintance with the peninsula begins with its history. The story is not simple, like the whole Arctic. Where, in permafrost conditions, houses were built and erected not just by prisoners, but by people with brilliant minds, who had the imprudence to say something unnecessary or to be simply displeasing to their state. So on one hill a cross was erected in memory of the Baltic generals, and at its foot, in the thick of trees, there was a small burial place. Few people know about this, but they were brought here in 1941, in military greatcoats (which were later replaced by prison sweatshirts) to serve their sentences (or rather, to build). The generals were already at that age when it was difficult to even get off the ladder, let alone work. As you understand, they did not live in such conditions for long...
If you put aside all the hardship of life in Taimyr, you can see its beauty and pristine nature. We will enjoy the cascade of waterfalls that replace each other one after another. Their power in their flow, splashes, blue water. Let's enjoy blueberries, blueberries and even red currants. And mushroom pickers here will find freedom for themselves and will be stupefied by the number and variety of mushrooms... Well, well, the day is coming to an end, you can wrap yourself in a blanket and sing a couple or three romances with a guitar, drink hot tea and more, tell a heroic legend about yourself and immediately laugh out loud, amazed at your imagination.
Morning, hearty breakfast and off we go. It's time to visit the mountain lake, which is located in a stone circus and a four-hour walk from the base camp. A short walk along the river, and then trekking through the forest-tundra. This is where the hard part begins. Firstly, the path to the top is always not easy, secondly, the local berries beckon you to stay and not go anywhere (but the midges don’t let you relax and try in every possible way to fly somewhere), thirdly, the dwarf birch trees are very closely intertwined with each other and spread along the ground in a thick carpet, so it’s very difficult to walk along them. And two more serious “rivals” - the wind and the enchanting view of Lake Lama and the nearby mountains, you want to sit and contemplate. But... we climbed here for a reason, but we are leading our way to a lake of snowy origin. And there is one more test ahead - kurumnik (stone embankments). Here you need to be extremely focused, the stones can be shaky and unstable. Particularly astute ones may feel like “goats” and deftly jump on them, but do not be deceived, this can be dangerous! A little time later, we approach the lake: cold, crystal clear and rebellious, because the wind does not spare its surface and blows from all sides. That’s when you feel that you can’t survive in this land alone, only mutual assistance and love can warm you up and save you from the bitter cold. Loneliness is the lot of snowy mountains, but they are not completely alone. In a couple of days we will have to climb to a height of 1060 meters, which the locals called Pavel, and on the contrary, about the same height, the Elena peak.
Now descent, rest. Fishing. Clouds.
The beginning of September is the golden time of Putoran. The weather is kind to us: today it is warm, bright sun, trees in elegant “dresses” of yellow and red. We are preparing for the ascent, we are worried, we are in a little hurry (what if the weather changes and we won’t see anything there, because the previous group climbed in the snow a week ago). But, no, someone invisible “agreed” with the weather so that we could fully enjoy this day (if it’s a secret, Lama makes wishes come true, the main thing is to ask correctly). And here is our usual road along the river, an ascent along a dry stream bed, forest-tundra, a kurumnik and stone “gendarmes”, which we walked around to the side so as not to disturb them. Plateau. There is a lot of light, space - the “roof” of the world, everything from above seems small, simple, distant and at the same time so close that you can almost touch it with your hand. Huge lakes now fit in the palm of your hand, and rivers are just thin winding threads. How could you live without this feeling of flight, scale and freedom? Sometimes we forget where we live and what surrounds us, and only in such moments of freedom do we free our minds from the frailty of little things and leave only what is really important!
Yes, sometimes it’s worth experiencing all the hardships of life in order to later understand what you’re worth. And this ascent and journey is proof of that. Now it's time to return to civilization. Saying goodbye is always painful for me, but also trembling, because the hope of returning always warms my soul...
“The Wizard” again, a long return to Norilsk, but you are already full of life and feelings that saturate you. Dudinka. Dream.
The last day of getting to know Taimyr, the Yenisei, with its sad history, but with hope for the best.
I sincerely hope that the finest hour of the Arctic is still ahead and that more people will experience the beauty of the Putorana Plateau.
